National Hardwood Flooring & Moulding offers creative solutions,
high-quality products and unsurpassed expertise
Value, Service & Expertise
In addition to all the well-known flooring brands we also carries our own brand lines. Clientele benefit from the company’s position as an industry leader and ability to provide high-quality products for the most competitive prices. From technical expertise to advising contractors on how to achieve exactly what they want, within budget, step by step, National Hardwood Flooring & Moulding has truly become a ONESTOP SHOP.
Fully Stocked for Every Need
Our showroom is readily stocked with essential items that its commercial and residential customers request. We’re able to accommodate all the needs, from the smallest nails to the most powerful sanders.
We inventory a vast assortment of stains and finishes, and specialized tools. Basically, there’s something for everyone.
Our reputation in the industry is very high, and we ensure that each job is taken care of on time. That’s so important to the builders we work with because for every month a unit isn’t occupied, that’s money lost. Not only that, but our experience allows us to recommend products that can help our customers stay within their budget as well as attain the quality they’re looking for.
Educational Tips & Product Information
A Quick Guide To Hardwood Floor Moldings
As you might have guessed from the title, this article is all about the fascinating world of moldings! Okay, maybe it's not the most interesting topic in the world, but if you plan on installing new hardwood or laminate flooring than you will need to have at least a basic understanding of what moldings are and their different types and uses.
So, first things first, what is molding? In short, they are trim pieces that help you transition from one flooring type to another. For instance, hardwood flooring to carpet. They also help you transition to different levels, like at the base of a stair case. The key word to remember here is 'transition'. It's also important to try and match the moldings to your newly installed hardwood or laminate. With natural wood, the color can be slightly different between pieces as you're working with a natural product subject to some variations, but Hardwood Bargains supplies a wide variety to make this a non-issue in most cases.
Now, let's go over the types we carry and try to paint you get a clearer picture of their uses and designs.
First up is the T-mold. As you can see in the picture above, it's not hard to tell where this one get's its name. You want to use a T-Mold when you are transitioning from one hard surface to another hard surface of equal height. For a T-mold it's important that both surfaces are the same height, or the lower side will risk breaking when stepped one. This is why you shouldn't use a T-mold to transition to carpet.
A great example of when to use T-molding is when you are installing flooring across multiple rooms. In that example they are perfect for transitional doorways.
For installation, you need to leave a small gap between the two floors you plan to combine. The T-mold is then glued down where it meets the subfloor using construction grade adhesive. It is then recommended that you place a heavy object on the mold overnight to ensure a strong bond. Alternatively, nailing the molding down can be a good choice as well.
Thresholds are used when you are joining one surface to another of a different height. They have a rounded square edge that slopes off to ease the transition from one surface to the next without creating too much pressure on the molding.
This is what you would use if you wanted to bump a hardwood floor up to a carpeted room. They are also used when your flooring meets up with the tract of a sliding door.
Much like the other moldings, threshold moldings can be glued or nailed down at the edge of your hardwood or laminate flooring.
I bet you can't guess the intended use of stairnose molds right? Well if you guess stairs anyway, then you're correct. These are used whenever you want to use actual floorboards to cover your stairs.
You want to install the stairnose flush against the floorboards to create a seamless transition to the end of the step. They should be both glued down in addition to face nailing them.
Reducers are used when you are using a staple, nail, or glue down installation for your hardwood floors and want to ensure a smooth transition to a different flooring type such as vinyl or tile.
Like most other moldings, reducers can be glued down or nailed to the subfloor. Flush reducers should only be used on flooring that is glued or nailed to the subfloor as well, and never used for a floating installation as they will not allow for necessary expansion gap. For floating installation, you would want to look for an overlap reducer instead.
Quarter Rounds are one of the most common types of molding used. They are used to cover the necessary expansion gap between a hard surface floor and a wall. Because they transition to a wall instead of another floor, sometimes these moldings will be color matched to the wall instead of the floor.
Quarter Round Moldings are the easiest to install. All you need to do is nail the moldings into the baseboard and you're all set.
TYPE OF FLOOR FINISHES
Stains and finishes are products which is applied to flooring, dries to a hard, durable and smooth film. This film is about the thickness of waxed paper and is expected to protect and extend the life of the floor while providing an attractive appearance and slip resistant surface.
Has a lower VOC content, a milder odor, and requires less drying time than oil-based poly. Most varieties require just two to four hours of drying time between coats. Doesn’t yellow as much as oil-based polys do. Water-based polyurethane usually requires the application of more coats than oil-based finish does. Available in single-component and two-component varieties. More expensive than oil-based poly finishes.
This type of finish cures by absorbing moisture vapor from the air. Extremely high VOC content and very strong fumes––proper ventilation and respirators are required during application. Extremely durable. It’s more water-resistant than most other finishes. Most formulas amber with age. Relatively expensive compared to other finishes.
Penetrating Oil / Sealer
As the name suggests, this type of finish penetrates the wood and fills the pores to create a durable seal. Penetrating oil consists of a blend of natural oils, usually including tung oil. Tends to turn an amber color over time. Very durable. Mild odor, low VOC, mellow sheen. Simple to apply and touch up. Needs long drying times between coats––usually 24 to 48 hours––but will turn whitish in color if it is allowed to dry too quickly. Penetrating oil is good for use on antique flooring.
This was a common hardwood floor finish of choice before polyurethane finishes were created. Wax seeps into the pores of the wood to give it extra durability, but it’s vulnerable to water damage. Wax needs regular maintenance and is not as durable as poly. Low luster, amber appearance. Tends to darken the wood. Low VOC content.
UV Floor Finishes
UV curing technology, used in conjunction with UV floor finishes, cure the floor instantly. This allows you to put the floors back into use almost immediately. Perfect for situations where you need a quick turnaround time, like restaurants and other commercial settings. A UV-cured hardwood floor is very resistant to mechanical and chemical abrasion.
How to Calculate How Much Stain to Use on Your Floor
Calculating how much stain to use on a floor is not a difficult task, but some measuring and basic math skills are required. The square footage covered is listed on the stain container as a guide, as well. However, you also must factor in how porous your wood floor is, how you will apply the stain, and whether you will apply one coat or more. Once you have all the information, you are ready to purchase stain.
- Measure the length and width of the floor. If the floor is not rectangular or square, measure as close as you can to a rectangular or square shape. Measure the length and width of additional areas you wish to stain, such as doorways, closets or hallways.
- Multiply the length by the width of the larger area to determine the square footage of the area. Multiply the length by the width of the hallway, closet or doorway areas to determine their square footage. Add the square footage of the hallway, closet and doorway areas to that of the main area.
- Check the square-foot coverage on the can of stain you have chosen. Divide the total square footage of the area you want to stain by the square footage covered by a can of your chosen stain. Round the result up to the next whole number. For example, if you have 400 square feet of floor to cover and a can of stain covers 220 square feet, you need two cans of that stain. However, this is only an approximation of the number of cans of stain you will need before factoring in the type of wood and the application process.
- Determine what kind of wood is on your floor. Oak is a popular wood for floors, but it is porous and will soak up more stain. Ash and chestnut are similar to oak. Pine, cedar or fir only needs a light application of stain. Maple is a dense wood that does not absorb stain easily, so it may need two coats.
- Decide how you will apply the stain. If you spray on the stain, less is used. If you use a brush, allowing you to work the stain into the wood, more stain is used.
- Decide whether you will apply one or two coats of stain. If you want a darker effect or if the wood is dense, you may want to apply two coats. Therefore, you will need to double the amount of stain you purchase.
- Consider the calculated number of containers, type of wood and application. If the wood is porous, and you are using a brush, buy an additional container of stain. If the wood is pine, cedar or fir, you may not need more than the calculated number of cans of stain.
Things You Will Need
- Measuring tape
- Wipe off excess stain soon after you apply it to avoid uneven color.
- Oil stains allow you more working time. Water stains dry faster, but have less odor.
- Save money by purchasing stain in gallon containers instead of quarts if you determine you need a large amount of stain.
- Do not stain your floor in an enclosed room. Make sure the room is well ventilated. Always wear a mask when applying stain.
- Stained wood is unprotected wood. You need to apply a protective finish such as polyurethane.
Getting a Quote
In order to ensure the best possible match, please provide as much of the following information as possible:
- Whether it is MDF, finger joint or clear
- The species of wood that is being matched (for example, pine or oak)
You may also fax our office at (818) 989-1962 a tracing of the profile to ensure that our mouldings match exactly.
We need to know how the moulding is being used – for example, half-round, arch, elliptical, curved wall.
See diagrams for how to measure the proper dimensions for each type of application.
Length of Materials
Our standard mold length is 12’. Shorter lengths can be custom made but it may be less expensive to order 12’ lengths for the items that we stock.
Special Order Requirements
- Reversing the orientation of the moulding.
- Using casing on the ceiling as an accent for crown moulding
Casing is generally bent with the thick edge to the outside of the radius, but can also be specified with the thick edge to the inside. When ordering, please specify if the moulding needs to be reversed.
Selecting A Half Round
Sizes for half-rounds are based on the diameter (2 times the radius) of the inside jamb width. For example, a 2/0 half-round will have a diameter of approximately 24”.
Material length required for half-round (in feet) = Diameter /2 (Radius) + Casing Width x Pi (3.146) / 12
For arched openings, please provide measurements for the width of the opening (inside jamb) and the center rise (do not include leg height). Templates are not required if it is a true radius opening.
Material length required for arc (in feet) = Rise x 3 + Width (both in inches)/ 12
Casing for elliptical or oval applications must be pre-bent at our factory. Were are limitations on how tight a radius can be created. Templates are usually required, but we have standard templates for many window and door unit manufacturers.
Six Standard Sizes in Stock
FITS INSIDE JAMB WIDTH
22” to 25”
2/4 & 2/8
26” to 32”
3/0 & 3/4 (1/8 Twin)
34” to 40”
4/0 (2/0 & 2/4 Twin)
42” to 56”
5/0 (2/8 Twin)
57” to 66”
6/0 (3/0 Twin)
67” to 84”
Crown moulding typically needs to be pre-bent during production. Please supply the following information when ordering:
- Whether the application is convex (outside radius or OSR) or concave (inside radius or ISR). IMPORTANT: Please specify if the crown is being used for a dormer window or Tudor-style roof.
- How the crown will be installed. Identify top and bottom of the profile.
- The radius of the wall or ceiling. Th e radius can be calculated by providing the width and rise. Please provide dimensions A, B and C from diagram above.
- If you are using a crown backer such as a ceiling plate or wall plate. Ceiling plates must be pre-bent, while wall plates use straight pieces.
Base & Chair Rail Moulding
Base and chair rail profiles are typically installed with the back of the moulding to the wall. A straight standard piece is normally used unless it is a very tight radius, which may need to be pre-bent. Please specify length of material required, the profile name and the species of wood that is being matched.
Please clearly specify how the product is being installed (for example, casing, jamb or base) so that we can determine whether to pre-bend or not. We stock most standard dimensions – 1 x 4, 1 x 6, etc. – in 8’ and 12’ lengths. Custom sizes are available with no setup charge. We also have molds for a 1 x product with wood grain (similar to a cedar texture) that can be used for interior or exterior applications. Please specify the width, thickness and length of material required and whether wood grain is needed.
SCHÖNOX APF a Pumpable Synthetic Gypsum Based Fiber Reinforced, Dust Reduced Self-Leveling Compound
Especially suitable for wooden floors as well as other critical substrates. Designed for interior areas needing refurbishment work. Embedded fibers provide a reinforcement making it unnecessary to lay a reinforcement fabric. Can be installed above 1/8˝ up to 1˝.
|Compressive strength:||6200 PSI|
|Ready for covering:||After approximately 24 hours at 1/8˝|
|Coverage:||60-70 sq. ft. at 1/8˝|
|LEED:||EQc2 - 3 points|
|MRc1 - up to 2 points|
|Life-Cycle Impact Reduction|
|MRc2 - 1 point|
|Environmental Product Declaration|
|MRc3 - 1 point|
|Sourcing of Raw Materials|
|MRc4 - 1 point|
|VOC Content:||0g/l (calculated), SCAQMD 1113|
|Shelf life:||12 months|
SCHÖNOX APF Poured Over Well Adhered Low Pile Carpet Schönox APF is recognized as a synthetic gypsum self-leveling underlayment for applications over clean, dry, well adhered carpet tile or commercial broadloom carpet (that is well bonded to plywood, concrete, or existing flooring such as VAT). This removes the need for demo thus drastically reducing the time and expense of the project. It also eliminates demolition debris and hazardous waste from entering the landfill. Prior to application, submittal of a completed pre-installation checklist, along with photographs of the application, job site layouts, job site address and all relevant documentation, is required. A Schönox Regional Business Manager, Technical Specialist or Technical professional recognized by Schönox must complete a pre-installation jobsite inspection for installations over 5,000 sq. ft. APF must be installed at a minimum thickness of 3/8” over carpet. A Schönox job specific warranty is available upon completion of all required jobsite inspections, documentation submittals, and after substantial completion of the installation.